Pure Bushcraft Outdoor Skills Challenge 85: Learn to Read Waves

The sea can look calm from a distance while hiding powerful currents, changing conditions and waves that behave very differently from one another. Learning to observe the waves helps you to understand what the water is doing and recognise when a stretch of coast may be hazardous.

Waves are shaped by wind, the seabed, the coastline, the tide and conditions farther out at sea. Their size and direction can change as they approach shallow water, and a beach that looks manageable at one moment may become more dangerous as conditions develop.

This challenge is about improving your observation skills. You will study waves from a safe position on shore, identify different patterns and learn to recognise warning signs without entering the water or putting yourself at risk.

Your Challenge

Visit a suitable coastal viewpoint and spend time observing the waves. Identify their general direction, compare their size, watch where they begin to break and look for differences in the movement of water along the shoreline.

Your goal is to record at least three observations about the wave conditions and explain what they might tell you about the sea.

You do not need to enter the water, approach the water’s edge or visit a remote beach. A public promenade, cliff-top viewpoint with safe barriers, or another established viewing location can be suitable.

Choose a location where you can see the sea clearly without standing on slippery rocks, unstable cliffs, exposed harbour walls or other hazardous ground. Never turn your back on the sea to take photographs or make notes.

What You’ll Need

• A suitable coastal viewpoint with a clear view of the waves.
• A notebook and pencil, or a phone for recording observations.
• A watch or phone timer.
• Binoculars, if available and safe to use from your chosen position.
• Weather and tide information for the location.
• A suitable outdoor jacket and footwear for the conditions.

Check the weather forecast and tide information before setting out. Strong winds, large swell, high tides and rough seas can make some coastal paths and viewpoints unsafe.

Do not assume that a location is safe simply because other people are visiting it. Stay behind barriers, obey warning signs and follow local advice. If conditions are severe, choose a safer location or postpone the challenge.

Take the Challenge

1. Choose a safe observation point

Find a place where you can watch the sea without needing to walk onto wet sand, rocks or a harbour wall.

An elevated viewpoint can be useful because it allows you to see wave patterns across a wider area. However, cliffs and exposed headlands can be dangerous in strong winds, so use established paths and viewing platforms rather than approaching the edge.

Before you begin, look at the surrounding coastline. Notice whether you are observing a sandy beach, a rocky shore, a sheltered bay or a more exposed stretch of coast.

These differences influence how waves behave. A sheltered bay may receive less direct wave energy than an exposed beach, while rocks and shallow seabed features can cause waves to refract, break or change direction.

Record the location and approximate time of your observation. These details will help you understand why the waves might look different on another day.

2. Observe the general direction of the waves

Watch several waves as they approach the shore. Look at the angle of their crests and compare the direction in which they travel with the shape of the coastline.

Waves often approach a beach at an angle rather than directly towards it. As they reach shallower water, their speed changes and their direction may bend. This process is known as wave refraction.

Look for the following:

• Are the waves approaching almost straight towards the beach?
• Are their crests angled along the shoreline?
• Do different sections of the beach appear to receive waves from slightly different directions?
• Does the direction seem consistent, or does it change over the observation period?

Do not assume that the direction a wave appears to travel tells you everything about the movement of the water beneath it. Waves transfer energy, while the movement of water itself can be more complicated.

Record your best description of the dominant wave direction. You do not need to measure an exact compass bearing to complete this part of the challenge.

3. Compare the size and frequency of the waves

Watch the sea for at least ten minutes, provided the viewpoint remains safe. Instead of judging the conditions from a single wave, observe a sequence.

Notice the difference between smaller waves and larger ones. You may find that several relatively small waves are followed by a noticeably larger wave, or that the waves arrive in fairly regular groups.

Wave height is the vertical distance between a crest and the following trough. From shore, it can be difficult to estimate accurately, particularly when the sea is viewed from above or there are no useful reference points.

For this challenge, describe the waves as relatively small, moderate or large compared with the other waves you can see. Avoid assigning precise heights unless you have a reliable way to measure them.

Next, observe how frequently the waves arrive. Some conditions produce short intervals between waves, while others have longer periods between successive crests.

Record whether the waves appear regular, irregular or grouped into sets. Remember that a short observation gives you only a snapshot of the conditions, not a guarantee of what will happen later.

4. Watch where the waves break

One of the most useful features to observe is where waves begin to break.

As a wave moves into shallow water, it slows and its shape changes. Eventually, the crest may become unstable and collapse forwards, producing a breaking wave.

On a gently shelving sandy beach, waves may break progressively as they approach the shore. On a steeper beach, they can break more abruptly and rush up the slope with considerable force.

Look for differences along the stretch of coast in front of you.

You might notice waves breaking in a relatively continuous line, or you might see sections where waves break farther offshore while other sections remain less disturbed.

These differences can reflect changes in water depth and seabed shape. Sandbanks, channels and underwater features can influence where waves break, but their precise shape cannot reliably be established just by looking at the surface.

Record where the main breaking zone appears to be and whether it is relatively uniform along the beach.

Never walk out towards the breaking waves to investigate them more closely. Even shallow-looking water can knock someone off their feet, and a retreating wave can move sand and debris beneath them.

5. Look for differences in wave patterns along the shore

Compare two or three sections of the coastline that are visible from your safe position.

Do the waves break with similar strength everywhere, or does one area appear more turbulent than another? Are there sections with relatively smooth water between areas of breaking waves?

Changes in wave patterns can result from variations in seabed depth, the shape of the coastline, underwater structures or the way waves approach the shore.

A relatively calm-looking patch of water does not necessarily mean the area is safe. It may reflect deeper water, a gap between breaking waves or other local conditions.

Similarly, an area with fewer breaking waves is not automatically a rip current. A rip current is a flow of water moving away from the shore, often through a channel between areas of breaking waves. Some rip currents are difficult to identify from the beach, and their appearance varies with local conditions.

Do not attempt to identify a suspected current by entering the water or wading into it. If you see an unusual pattern, record its location from your viewpoint and treat it as something that requires caution rather than an opportunity to investigate.

6. Learn to recognise possible rip-current indicators

Rip currents are a significant coastal hazard because they can carry swimmers away from the shore.

From a safe viewpoint, look for possible signs such as:

• A channel of water that appears to move seaward through breaking waves.
• A gap in the line of breaking waves.
• Water that looks unusually turbulent or discoloured compared with the surrounding sea.
• Foam, seaweed or other floating material moving away from the beach.

These are possible indicators, not a reliable checklist for confirming a rip current. Some rips have few obvious surface signs, while similar patterns can occur for other reasons.

Do not assume that every gap in the waves is a rip, or that areas with continuous breaking waves are necessarily safe for swimming.

If you are visiting a beach with lifeguards, follow their advice and use designated bathing areas. If you are unsure about the conditions, stay out of the water.

If someone is caught in a rip current, do not enter the water to attempt a rescue. Raise the alarm, call 999 and ask for the Coastguard at the coast. Follow the emergency operator’s instructions and alert a lifeguard if one is present.

7. Consider the influence of wind and tide

Now look at the weather and tide information for your observation period.

Wind blowing across the sea can generate waves, and stronger or more persistent winds can contribute to larger waves. The distance over which wind blows across the water, known as fetch, also influences wave development.

However, the waves you see near the shore may have travelled from a distant area. Swell generated by weather far away can arrive even when local winds are relatively light.

Tides change the depth of water over beaches, reefs and sandbanks. As water levels rise and fall, the location and character of breaking waves can change too.

Look for signs of wind affecting the sea surface, such as roughness, spray or waves becoming more irregular. Compare your observations with the forecast, but remember that local conditions can differ from general predictions.

Record whether the tide was rising, falling or near high or low water, if you can establish that from reliable local information. You do not need to predict how the waves will behave later; the purpose is to recognise that sea conditions are constantly changing.

8. Record your observations

Bring your findings together in a simple observation table.

Observation	Your findings
Type of coastline	Sandy beach, rocky shore, bay or other
General wave direction	Describe the approach
Relative wave size	Small, moderate or large
Wave frequency	Regular, irregular or grouped
Breaking pattern	Continuous line, scattered or variable
Differences along the shore	Describe any visible changes
Possible current indicators	Record observations without assuming confirmation
Wind conditions	Calm, breezy or strong
Tide stage	Rising, falling or uncertain
Overall assessment	Describe the conditions and any concerns

Finish by writing three things you learned about the waves at your chosen location.

You could note that the waves approached at an angle, that their breaking pattern differed along the beach, or that the conditions appeared rougher than the local wind alone suggested.

Do not make a decision about whether swimming is safe based on your observations alone. Wave reading is one part of coastal awareness, not a substitute for lifeguard advice, local warnings or a proper assessment of conditions.

Check Your Results

Review your notes and answer these questions:

1. Could you describe the general direction in which the waves approached the shore?
2. Did you notice differences in the size or frequency of successive waves?
3. Could you identify where the main waves were breaking?
4. Did the breaking pattern vary along the coastline?
5. Could you identify any patterns that might warrant caution without assuming you had confirmed a rip current?
6. Did you consider how wind, swell and tide might affect what you observed?
7. Can you explain why a calm-looking patch of water is not necessarily safe?
8. Did you complete your observations from a safe position without entering the water or approaching hazardous ground?

If you found the patterns difficult to interpret, that is perfectly normal. Waves interact with the seabed and coastline in complex ways, and even experienced observers cannot reliably determine every underwater hazard from surface appearance alone.

The important result is that you have practised observing the sea systematically and understand some of the limitations of what you can see.

Complete the Challenge

To complete this challenge, spend at least ten minutes observing waves from a safe coastal viewpoint and record your findings using the observation table.

Your evidence should include at least three observations about the waves and a brief explanation of how the conditions, breaking patterns or coastline influenced your interpretation.

You must remain in a safe location throughout the exercise. Do not enter the sea, approach breaking waves, walk onto slippery rocks or climb beyond established coastal barriers to obtain a better view.

How to Submit Your Challenge

Submit your evidence

Take a photograph of the sea from your safe observation point. You can also photograph your completed observation notes or create a single photograph showing both your viewpoint and your recorded findings.

Do not move closer to the water or stand in an exposed position simply to get a better photograph. Your safety matters more than the evidence.

Then follow these steps:

1. Go to your Pure Bushcraft member profile.
2. Open Social Activity.
3. Upload your photograph of the sea and, ideally, your recorded observations.
4. Add the hashtag #Pure BushcraftChallenge85 to your post.
5. Share it for verification.

Include a short explanation of what you noticed, such as the direction of the waves, where they broke and any differences you observed along the shore. Avoid claiming that you have definitively identified a rip current unless this has been confirmed by a suitably qualified source.

Challenge 85 Checklist

Want to Push Yourself?

Return to the same viewpoint on another day when conditions are suitable and repeat your observations. Compare the wave patterns, wind conditions and tide stage with your original notes.

You may find that the same stretch of coastline looks completely different depending on the direction of the swell, the state of the tide and recent weather. Record the differences and consider which factors might explain them without assuming you can determine the underwater conditions from appearance alone.

For another challenge, compare observations from two different types of coastline, such as a sheltered bay and a more exposed beach. Use established public viewpoints and do not visit exposed locations during dangerous weather.

You could also research how lifeguards and coastal safety organisations assess beach conditions. Compare their guidance with your own observations and identify where your visual assessment has limitations.

The aim is not to become an expert in wave forecasting after one exercise. It is to develop a habit of looking carefully at the sea, recognising potential warning signs and understanding when to stay well clear of the water.

What’s Next?

Continue building your practical outdoor skills with Pure Bushcraft Outdoor Skills Challenge 84: Compare Two Water Filters by Filtering the Same Water. That challenge focuses on assessing outdoor equipment systematically, recording results and understanding the limitations of a practical test.

You can complete Pure Bushcraft Outdoor Skills Challenges in any order, so feel free to explore other topics that interest you or return to previous challenges to practise what you have learned.

Once you’ve shared your evidence and it has been verified, the Pure Bushcraft Outdoor Skills Challenge 85 is complete and the completed challenges figure will be updated on your profile.