December Bushcraft Calendar: Winter Skills, Survival & Outdoor Living

December brings the year’s shortest days to much of the Northern Hemisphere. It is a month for fire and warmth, for learning to identify trees from their bark and buds, and for reading tracks in mud, frost or snow. Elsewhere, the seasons may be very different, offering their own opportunities to practise outdoor skills, observe wildlife and deepen your understanding of the natural world.

December at a glance

Fact

Details

Character

Northern Hemisphere, temperate regions: Short days, low temperatures and often wet conditions, with frost, fog and occasional clear, still days. Southern Hemisphere: Early summer in many temperate regions, with longer days and potentially warmer conditions.

Daylight

UK example (2026): London has approximately 8h 11m of daylight on 1 December, falling to 7h 50m around the winter solstice on 21 December. Edinburgh has approximately 7h 25m, falling to around 6h 58m. Day length and seasonal changes vary with latitude.

Fire difficulty

4 out of 5 in wet, temperate winter conditions: Damp fuel, cold hands, limited daylight and wet ground can make fire preparation more challenging. Conditions vary considerably by location.

Foraging

Northern Hemisphere, temperate regions: Rosehips and hawthorn haws may remain available, alongside some winter greens and other seasonal resources. Correct identification is essential. Holly, ivy, yew and mistletoe berries are unsafe to eat. Availability depends on local climate and species.

Insects

In colder climates, insect activity generally decreases, but some species remain active during mild weather. Look for signs of overwintering beneath loose bark, in leaf litter, dead wood and sheltered habitats without unnecessarily disturbing them.

Cold risk

Potentially very high in exposed winter conditions: Wind, rain, wet clothing, fatigue and inadequate insulation increase the risk of hypothermia and cold injury. In warmer regions, heat, storms and other seasonal hazards may be more relevant.

Best for

Fire preparation and management, cold-weather camping, winter tree identification, tracking, natural shelter assessment, night-sky observation and practising outdoor skills in challenging conditions.

Woodland visibility

Generally improving in deciduous woodland: Most deciduous trees have lost their leaves, opening up sightlines and making woodland structure, fallen timber and animal movement easier to observe. Evergreen vegetation and dense undergrowth can still restrict visibility.

Ground conditions

Northern Hemisphere, temperate regions: Expect saturated soil, mud, standing water, frost and occasional snow. Frozen ground may become slippery, while waterlogged paths and slopes can be difficult to cross. Check conditions before setting out.

Wildlife signs

Mud, frost and occasional snow can reveal footprints, trails and feeding signs. Look for tracks around muddy paths, woodland edges, water sources and sheltered feeding areas. Shorter daylight can also make dawn and dusk wildlife activity easier to observe.

Tree identification

With many deciduous trees bare, December is an excellent time to study bark, branching patterns, buds, twigs and overall tree shape. Learn to distinguish species such as oak, ash, beech, birch and hazel without relying on leaves.

Equipment priority

Warm, moisture-managing base layers, insulating mid-layers, waterproof outer clothing, spare dry socks, warm hats, gloves and reliable lighting. Carry spare batteries, fire-starting materials in waterproof storage and an emergency shelter appropriate to the conditions.

Navigation priority

Short daylight makes route planning particularly important. Check sunset times, carry a map and compass, know your position and identify escape routes. Do not rely entirely on a phone or electronic navigation device.

Main outdoor hazard

Cold-related exposure, particularly when combined with wind, rain, wet clothing and exhaustion. Slippery surfaces, swollen streams, falling branches and reduced visibility are additional hazards in many winter environments.

Seasonal preparation

Inspect winter clothing, footwear, shelters and sleeping systems. Check waterproofing, repair damaged equipment, practise using navigation tools and review emergency procedures before longer or more remote trips.

Key dates

Date

What happens

Around 11–13 December

Earliest sunset in southern England. The earliest sunset occurs before the winter solstice. Sunrises continue getting later into early January. Exact dates vary with location and year.

13–14 December

Geminid meteor shower peaks (2026). One of the year’s strongest and most reliable meteor showers. Under ideal dark-sky conditions, the theoretical rate can exceed 100 meteors per hour, although most observers will see fewer.

Around 21 December

Northern Hemisphere winter solstice. The shortest day and longest night of the year in the Northern Hemisphere. In London in 2026, sunrise is approximately 08:03 and sunset 15:53. In Edinburgh, sunrise is approximately 08:42 and sunset 15:39. The Southern Hemisphere experiences its summer solstice around this date. The days begin getting longer in the Northern Hemisphere. Although sunrise continues getting later for a short time after the solstice, sunset gradually starts occurring later. The change is initially very small.

22 December

Ursid meteor shower peaks (2026). A relatively weak shower, typically producing around 5–10 meteors per hour under favourable viewing conditions. Moonlight and cloud can make observations difficult.

Christmas and New Year

Evergreen plants and winter berries. Holly, ivy and mistletoe are familiar seasonal plants in parts of Europe and other regions. Their berries are unsafe to eat. Avoid confusing decorative plants with edible wild foods.

All month

Seasonal wildlife and countryside activity. In parts of the UK, game shooting continues for certain species. Shooting seasons vary by species and country, so check local dates, signs and access restrictions before entering managed shooting areas.

Daylight and weather

In the Northern Hemisphere, December brings the shortest days of the year. In parts of the UK, there are fewer than eight hours between sunrise and sunset, leaving little room for poor planning or delays. Treat sunset as a firm planning deadline, allow time to reach your destination safely and remember that useful natural light begins to fade before the sun disappears below the horizon.

In the Southern Hemisphere, December brings the opposite seasonal pattern, with longer days in many regions. However, changing weather, local daylight hours and terrain should always influence how you plan your time outdoors.

Date

London

Manchester

Edinburgh

1 December

07:44–15:55 (8h 11m)

08:02–15:54 (7h 52m)

08:19–15:44 (7h 25m)

8 December

07:53–15:52 (7h 59m)

08:11–15:50 (7h 39m)

08:30–15:39 (7h 09m)

15 December

08:00–15:52 (7h 52m)

08:19–15:49 (7h 31m)

08:38–15:38 (7h 00m)

22 December

08:04–15:54 (7h 50m)

08:23–15:52 (7h 28m)

08:43–15:40 (6h 58m)

29 December

08:06–15:59 (7h 53m)

08:25–15:57 (7h 32m)

08:44–15:46 (7h 02m)

Sunrise and sunset times are local GMT figures for December 2026, calculated for each city’s approximate location and a level horizon. Actual visible daylight can differ because of surrounding hills, buildings, woodland, cloud cover and local terrain. Times are specific to 2026, although they will be broadly similar in other years.

The winter solstice

The Northern Hemisphere winter solstice falls on 21 December 2026. This marks the shortest day and longest night of the year in the Northern Hemisphere. After the solstice, daylight gradually begins to increase, although mornings continue getting darker for a little longer because the latest sunrise occurs after the solstice.

In the Southern Hemisphere, the December solstice marks the longest day and shortest night of the year.

Using the light

  • At midday in mid-December, the sun reaches only around 15° above the horizon in London, 13° in Manchester and 11° in Edinburgh. The low sun creates long shadows throughout the day and can be blocked by woodland canopies, hills and surrounding terrain.
  • Daylight changes relatively little from week to week around the winter solstice, but the total available daylight is still very limited. The shortest day falls around 21 December in the Northern Hemisphere.
  • It gets dark beneath trees and in deep valleys earlier than in open areas. Aim to have your shelter established and essential camp tasks completed well before sunset. In many parts of the UK, this means starting camp preparations during the early afternoon.
  • Set a firm turnaround time, preferably at least one hour before sunset, and allow enough time to return safely. Add extra time for unfamiliar routes, difficult ground and poor weather.
  • The earliest sunsets occur before the winter solstice, around 12–13 December in southern England. The latest sunrises occur towards the end of December or early January, so mornings continue getting darker for a while after the solstice.

Typical weather (UK Northern Hemisphere)

  • Daytime highs typically range from around 6–9°C across much of England and Wales, although coastal areas, higher ground and northern regions can differ considerably. Scotland’s uplands are generally colder, and hard frosts can develop overnight, particularly during clear, calm conditions.
  • Snow is more likely in northern areas and at higher elevations, but it can fall almost anywhere in the UK. Fog and freezing fog can develop during settled, cold weather, reducing visibility and making surfaces slippery.
  • Atlantic low-pressure systems can bring strong winds, heavy rain and flooding. Check the Met Office forecast and weather warnings before travelling, particularly if heading into exposed countryside, hills or woodland.
  • Wet ground, saturated paths and swollen streams can make familiar routes considerably more difficult. Avoid crossing fast-flowing or flooded water, and be prepared to change your route.
  • Strong winds can bring down branches and whole trees, particularly where the ground is saturated. Avoid exposed woodland and do not shelter beneath damaged, leaning or unstable trees during or after storms.
  • Conditions can change quickly between sheltered valleys and exposed hillsides. Temperature, wind speed, precipitation and visibility may all be very different at higher elevations.
  • Watch for changing conditions: A calm, dry start does not guarantee a safe afternoon. Check updated forecasts before setting out, pay attention to changing wind and cloud conditions, and be willing to shorten or abandon an activity if the weather deteriorates.

International note: These are typical UK winter conditions, not a December weather forecast. In the Southern Hemisphere, December falls during summer in many regions. Local conditions may include high temperatures, thunderstorms, heavy rainfall, drought or elevated wildfire risk. Always check regional forecasts and seasonal hazards before going outdoors.

Week by week

The month changes as it goes. By the final week, the woodland, wildlife and ground conditions can look quite different from the beginning of December. Frost, changing daylight, winter visitors and seasonal weather all influence what you can observe and practise outdoors. The exact changes depend on your location, climate and local seasons.

Week

What changes

Try this

1–7 December

UK and temperate Northern Hemisphere: Frost and fog can develop on still, cold mornings. Most deciduous trees have lost their leaves, although oak and beech may retain some dead leaves. Winter visitors such as redwings and fieldfares feed on remaining berries and fallen fruit. Sunset occurs before 4 pm in much of the UK.

Learn to identify three different tree species using bark, buds, twigs and branching patterns alone.

8–14 December

The Geminid meteor shower approaches its peak on 13–14 December. Cold, clear nights may bring frost, although ponds and shallow water only freeze when temperatures remain sufficiently low. Holly berries may provide food for winter wildlife, while resident birds such as robins remain active.

Observe the Geminids from a dark, safe location. If conditions and local fire rules allow, practise building and managing a small reflector fire, paying attention to how it directs warmth.

15–21 December

The Northern Hemisphere winter solstice falls on 21 December, bringing the shortest day and longest night of the year. Early mornings remain dark, and frost, mud or occasional snow can reveal wildlife tracks and trails.

Complete a tracking walk. Look for footprints, feeding marks and animal trails in suitable ground conditions, then practise identifying what you find.

22–31 December

Following the solstice, daylight gradually begins to increase in the Northern Hemisphere. Sunset times have already started getting later in many locations, although mornings continue to darken for a little longer. Hard frosts, wet weather and occasional bright, clear spells remain possible.

Carry out a controlled cold-weather sleep-system test close to home. Assess your insulation, sleeping mat, shelter and clothing without deliberately exposing yourself to unsafe temperatures.

Remember: These weekly changes describe typical seasonal patterns rather than fixed dates. Weather, wildlife activity and plant behaviour vary between years and locations. Use the observations as prompts to explore your own surroundings, recording what changes from one week to the next.

In the woods

With many deciduous trees now bare, winter can open up woodland views that are hidden for much of the year. Branches, fallen timber and the woodland floor become easier to examine, while animal tracks and feeding signs may stand out in mud, frost or snow. It is an excellent time to slow down, observe the smaller details and learn to recognise the wildlife living around you.

Wildlife this month

  • Tracks and signs: Soft mud, frost and snow can reveal deer slots, fox and badger footprints, feeding marks and animal trails. Look for nibbled hazelnuts, chewed twigs, bark damage and stripped pine cones. Squirrels and some birds leave distinctive feeding marks on cones, while rodents and other mammals may leave characteristic marks on nuts. Compare several signs rather than relying on one clue to identify an animal.
  • Deer: In deciduous woodland, the lack of leaves can make deer easier to spot through the trees and along woodland edges. Watch quietly from a distance and avoid approaching, chasing or deliberately flushing them. Disturbing deer can waste valuable energy, particularly during harsh winter conditions.
  • Birds: Resident species such as robins remain active and defend feeding territories throughout winter. Long-tailed tits often move through woodland in small, noisy flocks, while redwings arrive in parts of Europe as winter visitors. Tawny owls may be heard calling after dark in parts of Europe, particularly during the winter breeding season. Listen carefully and avoid using recordings to attract or disturb birds.
  • Foxes: In Britain and much of temperate Europe, red foxes enter their main breeding period during winter. Their calls can become more noticeable from December onwards, with vixens sometimes producing loud, high-pitched screams. You may also notice increased scent-marking and territorial activity.
  • Hibernators: Hedgehogs and dormice commonly hibernate during winter in parts of Europe, while several bat species spend extended periods in hibernation or torpor. Their activity depends on species, location and temperature. Avoid disturbing log piles, hollow trees, leaf litter, roof spaces and other potential winter refuges. Never dismantle a shelter or handle a hibernating animal simply to investigate it.
  • Other signs of winter activity: Look for squirrel dreys high in tree branches, nests and roosting places, feeding remains beneath trees and paths worn through vegetation. These signs can reveal where animals shelter and feed even when the animals themselves remain hidden.

Regional note: These are examples from Britain and temperate Europe. Wildlife, migration patterns, breeding seasons and hibernation behaviour differ considerably around the world. Look into the species native to your own region and learn their seasonal habits.

Trees to learn this month

Tree

What to look for

Bushcraft use

Holly (tree of the month)

Dense evergreen foliage with glossy, dark green leaves, often edged with sharp spines. Female trees produce clusters of bright red berries when pollinated by a male tree.

Dense evergreen growth provides shelter from wind and useful natural screening. The hard, pale wood can be used for small craft projects and tool handles. Berries are poisonous to people and should never be eaten.

Scots pine

Orange-red, flaky bark towards the upper trunk, darker and more deeply fissured near the base. Blue-green needles grow in pairs and remain on the tree throughout the year.

Resin-rich deadwood, particularly old stumps and dead lower branches, can provide fatwood for fire lighting. Needles from correctly identified Scots pine can be used to make an infusion.

Yew

Dark green, flat, soft needles arranged in two rows along the sides of the twigs. Female trees produce distinctive red, fleshy arils surrounding a single seed. Often found in old churchyards and established woodland.

Primarily a tree to recognise and understand rather than harvest. Its wood has traditionally been used for specialist woodworking and bows. All parts except the fleshy red aril are highly toxic, including the seed. Never use yew for cooking, tea or fire preparation.

Ash

Grey bark that becomes deeply fissured on mature trees, distinctive black buds arranged in opposite pairs and clusters of winged seeds, known as keys, which may remain into winter.

Strong, tough and relatively flexible wood, traditionally used for tool handles, walking sticks and other implements. Well-seasoned ash is valued as firewood, but damp ash does not reliably burn well.

Oak

Rough, deeply ridged bark on mature trees, sturdy branching and distinctive clusters of buds at the ends of twigs. Some species retain dead leaves into winter.

Strong, durable timber suitable for traditional woodworking and campcraft projects. Properly seasoned oak makes excellent, long-burning firewood.

Mistletoe

Rounded evergreen clumps growing high in the branches of host trees, particularly apple, poplar and lime in parts of Europe. It has paired, leathery leaves and white berries. It is a semi-parasitic plant, not a tree.

Primarily useful for identification and understanding woodland ecology. It has no recommended bushcraft food use. European mistletoe berries and other plant parts can be harmful if eaten. Look without harvesting.

Identification note: These examples are particularly relevant to Britain and temperate Europe. Tree species, common names and seasonal identification features vary around the world. In other regions, use locally appropriate species and reliable identification references. Never assume that a tree is safe to use for food, drink or fire preparation simply because it resembles a familiar species.

Fire and fuel

In December, a fire can provide warmth, a place to cook and a welcome boost to morale during a cold outdoor session. However, wet ground, damp fuel and cold hands make preparation particularly important. A well-prepared fire lay, suitable fire site and reliable method of keeping tinder dry matter far more than how quickly you can produce a flame. Always consider whether an open fire is permitted and appropriate before lighting one.

Choose and prepare the site

  1. Check permission and local restrictions first. Obtain the landowner’s permission or use a designated fire area where required. Never assume that the right to walk or camp automatically includes permission to light a fire. In England and Wales, there is no general right to light an open fire simply because you have access to the land. In Scotland, follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, which allows responsible access but advises against open fires in woodland, on peaty ground, near buildings and during prolonged dry periods. Local restrictions and fire-risk warnings always take priority.
  2. Choose a suitable location. Use an established fire site or a stable, non-combustible fire base wherever possible. Keep the fire well away from tents, shelters, overhanging branches, tree trunks, exposed roots, dry vegetation and other combustible materials. Avoid enclosed spaces and locations where smoke could affect other people.
  3. Check the ground carefully. Never light a fire directly on peat, deep leaf litter, dry grass or other combustible ground cover. Peat can smoulder below the surface and remain alight long after the visible fire has been extinguished. Avoid waterlogged or unstable ground, and do not attempt to solve unsuitable conditions by simply building a fire platform.
  4. Prepare the surrounding area. Remove loose combustible material from the immediate permitted fire area where appropriate, without damaging vegetation or disturbing wildlife habitats. Keep a suitable supply of water available for extinguishing the fire and ensure you have a clear way to put it out quickly.
  5. Consider the wind. Position the fire so that sparks and smoke are directed away from people, shelters and combustible materials. If wind conditions make it difficult to control the fire, do not light it.

Regional guidance: The Scottish Outdoor Access Code is particularly important here. It recommends using a stove wherever possible and keeping any permitted open fire small, controlled and supervised.

When Not to Light a Fire

Knowing when not to light a fire is just as important as knowing how to build one.

  • High wildfire risk: Avoid open fires during droughts, prolonged dry weather or periods of elevated wildfire danger, even if the ground appears damp.
  • Peat and sensitive ground: Never light fires directly on peat, deep organic soil or vegetation that could smoulder beneath the surface.
  • Strong winds: Do not light a fire when wind could carry sparks into nearby woodland, grassland, vegetation or shelters.
  • Restricted locations: Follow local regulations, landowner instructions, designated fire-area rules and any temporary fire bans.
  • Unsuitable conditions: If you cannot establish a safe fire site, keep the fire under control or extinguish it reliably, choose another method of cooking and warmth.

A camping stove is often a more practical alternative in wet weather, sensitive environments and locations where open fires are unsuitable. However, stoves also require careful handling, ventilation and a stable, non-combustible surface.

Being able to complete an outdoor trip without lighting a fire is an important bushcraft skill in its own right.

Where to find dry material in December

Material

Where to look

Notes

Birch bark

Naturally fallen bark from dead or fallen birch trees, where collection is permitted.

Thin outer bark contains natural oils and can ignite readily, even when the surface is damp. Use loose, naturally shed material rather than stripping bark from living trees.

Fatwood

Old pine stumps, resin-rich deadwood and the lower portions of dead pine branches.

Resin-rich heartwood makes excellent fire-starting material. Look for a strong resin smell and sticky, often darker wood. Shave small curls to create a useful firelighter.

King Alfred’s cakes (cramp balls)

Dead or dying ash trees and fallen ash branches.

These hard, black, rounded fungi can be used as traditional tinder once properly dried. They can catch a spark and smoulder, helping to carry an ember. Make sure you have correctly identified the fungus.

Dead twigs and branches

Naturally fallen branches and suitable deadwood, where collection is permitted.

Small dead twigs protected beneath dense evergreen branches may be drier than exposed material. Test several pieces rather than assuming that all standing deadwood is dry.

Dry heartwood

Inside suitable dead branches or fallen timber that can legally be collected and split.

The inner core of some dead branches can remain relatively dry when the outside is wet. Split the wood to expose the interior, then shave suitable pieces into feather sticks. Keep prepared tinder in waterproof storage until needed.

Remember: Deadwood provides shelter and food for insects, fungi and other wildlife. Collect only where permitted, take no more than you need and avoid removing important habitat material. Never damage living trees to obtain firewood.

Fuel woods

Some woods provide longer-lasting heat than others. Density, moisture content and how well the wood has been seasoned all influence how a fire burns.

  • Dense hardwoods: Oak, ash, beech and hawthorn are generally good choices for sustained heat once properly seasoned. They tend to burn longer than lighter woods and produce useful cooking embers.
  • Lighter hardwoods: Willow, elder and poplar are less dense and generally burn more quickly. They can still be useful for getting a fire established or maintaining a smaller cooking fire, provided they are dry.
  • Splitting wet wood: If you have permission to use a suitable piece of deadwood, splitting it can expose a drier interior. Smaller split pieces also catch more easily than large, solid logs.
  • Seasoning matters: Even naturally dense hardwoods burn poorly when freshly cut or waterlogged. Properly dried fuel produces more useful heat and generally less smoke.

Never burn: Painted or treated timber, plywood, chipboard, laminated wood, chemically contaminated wood or unknown construction waste. Avoid pallets unless you can establish their origin, treatment and suitability; the safest choice is clean, untreated natural wood.

Stone safety: Never place wet or waterlogged stones in or immediately beside a fire for heating. Some rocks can crack or violently spall when heated, particularly if they contain trapped moisture. Use a purpose-made cooking support rather than relying on unknown stones.

Tips for December

  • Build a reflector wall: Where fires are permitted, a stable reflector made from suitable non-living logs or purpose-made materials can help direct some radiant heat towards your seating or working area. Position it safely behind the fire, away from shelters and other combustible materials. Never cut living trees to build one.
  • Understand the star fire: A star fire uses several longer pieces of fuel arranged with their ends pointing towards a central burning area. As the ends burn, the logs can be moved inwards. It can provide a controlled, relatively compact fire, but requires regular supervision and careful management. It is not a substitute for a properly contained fire site.
  • Practise with your ferro rod: Ferrocerium rods can produce sparks in cold and damp conditions, but cold fingers and bulky gloves can make handling them difficult. Practise with the gloves you intend to wear outdoors, keeping your tinder dry and your striking area clear.
  • Start early: Prepare your fire site and gather permitted fuel well before daylight fades. In much of the UK, sunset occurs before 4 pm during December. Do not leave fire preparation until the last available daylight.
  • Dry equipment carefully: Damp boots, gloves and clothing can be dried near a suitable heat source, but keep them far enough away to prevent scorching, melting or ignition. Never leave equipment unattended beside a fire. Never use an open fire, stove or charcoal burner inside a tent or enclosed shelter because of fire and carbon monoxide risks.

The build

  1. Prepare everything before lighting. Collect suitable, permitted fuel and organise it into three piles: tinder, kindling and larger fuel. Tinder should be fine and easily ignited, kindling should range from pencil to finger thickness, and larger fuel can be wrist thickness and above. Gather enough fuel for the entire activity, allowing for the possibility that some pieces will be too damp to use.
  2. Protect your tinder. Keep prepared tinder in a waterproof container or sealed bag until you need it. In cold or damp weather, keep it somewhere accessible and protected from moisture. Avoid placing loose tinder directly against sweaty clothing.
  3. Build your fire lay. Use an established fire base, suitable fire pan or other permitted fire arrangement. Place your tinder in the centre, leaving enough space for air to reach it. Arrange the smallest kindling around and above the tinder without compressing it too tightly.
  4. Light the tinder. Use your preferred fire-lighting method, such as a ferrocerium rod or matches. When using a ferro rod, direct the sparks into the tinder rather than scattering them across the surrounding ground. Keep your hands and face clear of the fire lay.
  5. Feed the fire gradually. Once the tinder catches, add the smallest kindling first. As the flames strengthen, gradually introduce thicker pieces, allowing sufficient space for airflow. Avoid adding too much fuel at once, as this can smother the developing fire.
  6. Manage your fuel. Keep the next few pieces ready so you aren’t searching for wood while the fire is burning. Split suitable damp deadwood to expose a potentially drier interior. Keep spare fuel close enough to access safely but far enough away that sparks cannot ignite it.
  7. Monitor the fire continuously. Keep it small and controlled, particularly in woodland or other sensitive environments. Never leave it unattended, even briefly. Maintain your extinguishing water supply and be prepared to put the fire out if conditions change.

Put it out

  • Allow the fire to burn down only while you remain present and supervising it. Do not leave it to burn out unattended.
  • Pour water slowly over the remaining fuel and embers, taking care to avoid steam and hot-water splashes.
  • Stir the ashes and remaining charcoal thoroughly with a suitable tool to expose any hidden embers.
  • Add more water and repeat until there is no remaining heat, smoke or glowing material.
  • Check the surrounding ground, fire base and any nearby material that may have become hot.
  • Do not assume a fire is extinguished simply because the flames have disappeared. Ash and buried embers can retain heat for a long time.
  • Follow the site’s instructions for disposing of cold ash. Where removal is required, take it away only once completely cold and dispose of it appropriately.
  • Leave the area clean and safe, without litter, burnt debris or damage to surrounding vegetation.

Final check: Before leaving, make sure the fire is completely cold. If you cannot confidently confirm that it is extinguished, do not leave the site.

Foraging

December is a relatively quiet month for foraging in many temperate regions. There are still a few wild foods worth recognising, but availability is limited and you should never rely on finding enough to provide a meal. It is also a month when several familiar winter berries are poisonous, making accurate identification particularly important. Learn what is available locally, collect responsibly and leave anything you cannot identify with complete confidence.

Plant

Where

Use

Watch out for

Rosehip (dog rose)

Hedgerows, woodland edges and sheltered scrub.

Can be made into syrup, tea and jelly. Frost may soften the hips, although they can become mushy.

Remove the stalks and dried flower ends. The fine hairs surrounding the seeds can irritate the mouth and digestive tract. Strain preparations thoroughly through fine muslin or a jelly bag.

Haw (hawthorn)

Hedgerows, woodland edges and scrub, particularly where mature hawthorn bushes grow.

The ripe flesh can be cooked into sauces, jellies and hawthorn ketchup.

Remove the stones and never crush or grind them into food. Cotoneaster and pyracantha produce similar-looking berries but should not be treated as edible hawthorn.

Chickweed

Gardens, cultivated ground, damp soil and sheltered disturbed areas.

Young leaves and shoots can be used in salads or cooked as a green vegetable.

Chickweed has a single line of fine hairs running along its stem. Correct identification is essential. Avoid contaminated ground, roadsides and areas frequented by dogs.

Hairy bittercress

Gardens, paths, walls, cultivated soil and disturbed ground.

Young leaves have a peppery flavour and can be used sparingly in salads or as a garnish.

It has small white flowers, divided leaves and upright seed pods. Do not confuse it with other small ground-covering plants. Avoid contaminated collection sites.

Scots pine, spruce or Douglas fir needles

Suitable woodland, plantations and established trees where identification is certain.

Correctly identified needles can be used to make a hot infusion.

Never use yew or unidentified conifers. Yew has flat needles arranged in two rows and is highly toxic. Scots pine has paired needles; spruce has individually attached, usually four-sided needles. Avoid conifer needle preparations during pregnancy as a precaution.

Holly, ivy, yew and mistletoe berries

Woodlands, hedgerows, gardens and mature trees.

Do not eat. These are identification and awareness examples only.

These plants contain toxic parts. Yew is particularly dangerous, and its seeds and needles are highly toxic. Keep berries away from children and pets.

Regional note: These examples are mainly relevant to Britain and temperate Europe. Plant species, edible uses and poisonous lookalikes differ around the world. Never use a photograph or general description as your only identification method.

Fungi

December can still produce fungi in suitable conditions, particularly during mild, damp spells. However, the number and variety of visible fruiting bodies generally decrease in many temperate regions.

This page does not teach mushroom identification, and no fungus should be considered edible based on a written description or photograph alone. Several poisonous and potentially deadly species resemble edible varieties.

If you want to learn about wild fungi, join a guided foray with a genuinely knowledgeable local expert and use reliable regional identification resources. Never eat a wild mushroom unless its identity has been confirmed with absolute confidence by someone suitably qualified.

Remember that fungi play an essential role in woodland ecosystems. They break down dead material, recycle nutrients and provide food and habitat for wildlife. Leave unfamiliar specimens undisturbed and avoid damaging the surrounding habitat.

Responsible Foraging and the Law

Foraging laws differ between countries and sometimes between individual landowners and managed sites. Never assume that public access automatically gives you permission to collect wild food.

UK guidance:

  • Permission and access: Check who owns or manages the land and whether collecting wild food is permitted. Access rights do not automatically include the right to forage. Ask the landowner or site manager if you are unsure.
  • Protected plants: In England and Wales, uprooting wild plants without the appropriate authority is an offence, and certain protected species must not be picked, uprooted, damaged or destroyed. Similar protections apply under separate legislation in Scotland and Northern Ireland.
  • Commercial collection: Do not collect wild plants or fungi for sale without the necessary landowner permission and any required authorisation. Commercial collection may be subject to additional restrictions.
  • Protected sites: Nature reserves, Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSIs), National Nature Reserves and privately managed estates may have additional restrictions or prohibit collection altogether. Check signs and site-specific rules before collecting.
  • Sustainable harvesting: Only collect common, abundant species and take what you genuinely intend to use. Avoid damaging roots, plants or surrounding habitat, and leave plenty for wildlife and natural regeneration.

A note on quantities: Taking no more than a quarter of an abundant local patch can be used as a conservative personal conservation guideline, but it is not a legal allowance or a guarantee of sustainable harvesting. In sensitive habitats, the correct amount to take may be nothing at all.

Outside the UK: Check the laws governing wild plant and fungi collection in your own country, including land access, protected species, national parks and commercial harvesting rules.

How to make rosehip syrup

Rosehip syrup is a traditional way of preserving the flavour of rosehips. It can be poured over porridge, pancakes and desserts or diluted with hot water to make a warming drink.

What you’ll need:

  • Approximately 500 g of correctly identified, ripe rosehips.
  • 1 litre of water.
  • Approximately 250–450 g of sugar, depending on the quantity of strained liquid and how sweet you prefer your syrup.
  • A saucepan.
  • A sharp knife or food processor.
  • A fine sieve and clean muslin or a jelly bag.
  • Clean, sterilised bottles or jars.

Method:

  1. Prepare the rosehips. Remove the remaining stalks and dried flower ends. Wash the hips thoroughly and discard any that are mouldy, damaged or rotten.
  2. Chop the fruit. Roughly chop the rosehips or pulse them briefly in a food processor. Avoid grinding the seeds into a fine powder.
  3. Simmer. Place the chopped rosehips in a saucepan with 1 litre of water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for approximately 15 minutes.
  4. Strain the mixture. Pour the liquid through a fine sieve lined with clean muslin or a jelly bag. Allow it to drain, then strain it again through fresh or thoroughly cleaned fine material. This is important because the fine hairs surrounding the seeds can cause irritation.
  5. Measure the liquid. Return the strained liquid to a clean saucepan. As a traditional syrup starting point, use approximately 450 g of sugar for each litre of strained liquid. Adjust the quantity to suit your preferred sweetness.
  6. Dissolve the sugar. Heat gently, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Bring the mixture to a brief boil, then remove it from the heat.
  7. Bottle and store. Pour the hot syrup into clean, sterilised, heat-resistant bottles or jars and seal. Allow it to cool before refrigerating.

Storage: Keep the syrup refrigerated and use it within a few weeks. Once opened, keep it refrigerated and use it promptly. Discard it if you notice mould, fermentation, an unusual smell or other signs of spoilage. Do not assume that hot-filling makes the syrup safe for long-term room-temperature storage.

Staying warm

Staying warm is a skill, and December is a good time to practise it close to home, where you have an easy way to get indoors if conditions become uncomfortable. Learning how your clothing, food, activity levels and shelter work together will help you make better decisions on longer walks and future cold-weather trips.

Remember the COLD principle:

  • C – Clean: Keep clothing clean, particularly the layers closest to your skin. Dirt, grease and sweat can reduce the effectiveness of some insulating materials.
  • O – Overheating: Avoid overheating and sweating heavily. Sweat can leave clothing damp, making you lose heat more quickly when you stop moving.
  • L – Loose layers: Wear layers that allow some air to be trapped between them. Avoid clothing that is so tight it restricts movement or circulation.
  • D – Dry: Keep your clothing, insulation and spare layers as dry as possible. Use waterproof bags or dry bags to protect spare clothing from rain and condensation.

Practical Ways to Stay Warm

  • Adjust your layers before you start working: If you are about to walk uphill, carry equipment or do another strenuous activity, remove a layer before you begin to overheat. You may feel slightly cool at first, but you should not deliberately allow yourself to become cold. Add the layer back when you stop or slow down.
  • Use a suitable layering system: Start with a wool or synthetic base layer to manage moisture, add an insulating mid-layer such as fleece or wool, and finish with a windproof, waterproof outer shell when conditions require it. Avoid cotton next to your skin in cold, wet conditions because it holds moisture and dries slowly. Protect your head, hands and feet with suitable hats, gloves and socks.
  • Insulate yourself from the ground: When sleeping outdoors, a sleeping mat is just as important as your sleeping bag. An R-value of around 4 or higher is a useful starting point for many cold-weather conditions, but the insulation you need depends on the ground temperature and your complete sleeping system. On frozen ground, consider adding a closed-cell foam mat beneath your main mat. Check that the combined insulation is suitable for the conditions.
  • Eat and drink regularly: Your body needs energy to maintain its temperature. Take regular snacks containing carbohydrates, fats and protein, such as nuts, dried fruit, chocolate and other high-energy foods. Drink regularly too; a warm drink can be comforting, but it does not replace adequate food, hydration or insulation.
  • Protect your phone and batteries: Cold temperatures can temporarily reduce battery performance. Keep your phone and spare power bank in an inside pocket, close to your body, and avoid leaving them exposed in a cold rucksack. Remember that a phone is not a substitute for carrying suitable navigation and emergency equipment.
  • Check exposed skin: Frostbite can cause numbness, tingling and skin that looks pale, white, waxy or unusually firm. Get out of the cold and seek urgent medical advice if you suspect frostbite. Do not rub or massage the affected area, apply direct heat or thaw it if there is a risk it could freeze again before you reach safety.

Recognising Hypothermia

Hypothermia occurs when the body’s core temperature falls dangerously low. It can develop in wet, windy conditions even when temperatures are above freezing.

Early warning signs include persistent shivering, tiredness, poor coordination, fumbling hands and difficulty concentrating. More serious signs include confusion, slurred speech, unusual behaviour and drowsiness. Shivering may eventually stop as the condition becomes more severe.

If you suspect hypothermia, get the person out of the cold, replace wet clothing with dry layers where possible, insulate them from the ground and protect them from further heat loss. Warm them gradually, concentrating on the centre of the body. Do not give alcohol. If they are confused, very drowsy or seriously unwell, call emergency services immediately. Give warm, sweet drinks only if they are fully awake and able to swallow safely.

The December practice: Choose a short, familiar outdoor walk or activity close to home. Pay attention to how your clothing feels when you move, when you stop and when the weather changes. Practise adjusting your layers before you become sweaty or cold, and make a note of what worked and what you would change next time.

The aim is not to see how much cold you can tolerate. It is to learn how to manage your temperature, recognise problems early and make sensible decisions before conditions become uncomfortable or dangerous.

Shelter, navigation and the night sky

Short days and long nights make December an excellent month to practise shelter building, winter navigation and stargazing. With less daylight available, preparation becomes especially important. Use the longer evenings to develop skills that will help you stay comfortable, find your way and understand the natural world around you.

Shelter and sleeping warm

A well-chosen shelter site and a properly prepared sleeping system can make a significant difference in cold weather. Practise close to home before relying on your equipment during a longer trip.

  • Choose your site carefully: Look for a naturally sheltered position away from strong winds, exposed ridges and areas beneath dead or damaged branches. Avoid hollows where cold air and water can collect, as well as waterlogged ground and areas at risk of flooding. Check the ground before pitching and look above you for potential hazards.
  • Pitch your tarp correctly: Where the terrain and wind direction allow, position the lowest or most protected side towards the prevailing wind, with the entrance on the sheltered side. Keep the shelter securely anchored and make sure rainwater can drain away rather than collecting beneath it. Never use an open fire, stove or burning fuel inside a tarp or enclosed shelter because of fire and carbon monoxide risks.
  • Be cautious with reflector fires: A reflector can help direct some radiant heat towards a suitable outdoor resting area, but it is not essential to a winter shelter. Only light a fire where it is permitted and safe, with plenty of clearance from the tarp, trees, roots and other combustible materials. Sparks and changing winds can make even a carefully positioned fire hazardous. A suitable sleeping system and warm clothing should never depend on a fire.
  • Use a suitable sleeping bag: Check the forecast overnight low before setting out and choose a sleeping bag whose comfort rating is appropriate for temperatures below that expected low. Pay attention to the comfort rating rather than relying on the lower-limit or extreme rating. Remember that wind, dampness, fatigue and individual differences can all affect how warm you feel.
  • Insulate yourself from the ground: Use a sleeping mat with sufficient insulation for the expected conditions. An R-value of around 4 or higher is a useful starting point for many cold-weather setups, but frozen ground may require additional insulation. A closed-cell foam mat underneath an inflatable mat can provide extra protection.
  • Sleep in dry clothing: Change out of damp walking clothes before getting into your sleeping bag. Wear dry base layers and a suitable hat if needed, and keep spare clothing protected in a dry bag. Avoid wearing so many layers that you become cramped inside your sleeping bag or compress its insulation.

Practise before you rely on it: Test your sleeping bag, mat and shelter in your garden or close to your home or vehicle. Pay attention to cold spots, condensation, draughts and how long it takes you to get comfortable. Make adjustments while you have an easy way to get indoors.

Winter Navigation

Winter navigation can be more challenging than it first appears. Frost, fog, snow and early darkness can make familiar paths difficult to recognise. Short daylight hours also leave less time to correct mistakes, so plan your route carefully.

  • Understand solar noon: Solar noon is the point when the Sun reaches its highest position in the sky for that day. In the Northern Hemisphere, it is generally due south at this time, and objects cast their shortest shadows towards the north. Solar noon does not usually occur at exactly 12:00 on the clock because of your location, time zone and the equation of time. In the UK during December, it is generally around midday, but the exact time changes throughout the month.
  • Understand the winter Sun: Around the December solstice, the Sun rises in the south-east and sets in the south-west across much of the Northern Hemisphere. In London, its midday height is only about 15 degrees above the horizon; in Edinburgh, it is around 13 degrees. This low angle creates long shadows and means hills, buildings and woodland can block sunlight surprisingly early. These directions and angles are approximate and depend on your location and the local horizon.
  • Use a map and compass: Do not rely on visible paths, footprints or a phone alone. Carry a suitable map and compass, know how to take a bearing and check your position regularly. In poor visibility, use identifiable features such as streams, ridgelines and track junctions as navigation handrails where appropriate.
  • Keep track of your route: Make a note of important junctions, changes in direction and recognisable landmarks. If conditions deteriorate, this information can help you retrace your steps. Avoid continuing into unfamiliar terrain simply because you think the path should be nearby.
  • Treat frozen water with caution: Never assume that a frozen pond, lake or river is safe to cross. Ice thickness can vary considerably, and snow may hide weak areas or open water. Keep away from frozen water unless you are in a properly managed area where the ice has been assessed as safe.
  • Plan around daylight: Check sunrise and sunset times before leaving, allow extra time for difficult ground and set a firm turnaround time. Carry a reliable torch or headtorch with spare batteries, even if you expect to return before dark.

The December Night Sky

Long evenings make December an excellent time to learn a few familiar constellations and observe the night sky. You do not need a telescope to get started; a clear, dark location and a little patience are enough.

  • Find Orion: On December evenings in the Northern Hemisphere, Orion is a prominent constellation in the southern part of the sky, moving from the south-east towards the south as the evening progresses. Look for the three bright stars in a straight line that form Orion’s Belt. Follow the line of the belt down towards Sirius, the brightest star in the night sky, and look above and to the right of Orion for the Pleiades star cluster.
  • Find the North Star: Polaris sits very close to the north celestial pole and can help you identify north. The easiest way to locate it is usually to find the Plough (also known as the Big Dipper) and use its two pointer stars to trace a line towards Polaris. If the Plough is low or difficult to see, Cassiopeia’s distinctive W shape can help you locate the same region of sky. Remember that Polaris is not directly overhead; its height above the northern horizon is approximately equal to your latitude in the Northern Hemisphere.
  • Watch the Geminids: The Geminid meteor shower is one of the most reliable annual meteor showers, usually reaching its peak around 13–14 December. Find a safe viewing spot with an open view of the sky, away from artificial lighting. Look across a wide area rather than staring at one point, and allow around 20–30 minutes for your eyes to adapt to the darkness. Avoid looking at bright lights, including a campfire, while watching.
  • Check the Moon phase: A bright full Moon can light up the landscape and make woodland surroundings easier to see, but its glare makes faint stars and meteors harder to spot. Around the new Moon, the sky is darker and more stars may be visible. Check the Moon phase and local weather forecast before planning an evening of stargazing.
  • Dress for standing still: Watching the night sky can mean spending a long time outside without moving much. Wear extra insulation, warm footwear, gloves and a hat. Take a warm drink and a suitable seat or insulated ground mat, and make sure you can find your way back safely.

December practice: Choose a clear evening and identify Orion, the Plough or Cassiopeia, and Polaris. If the Geminids are active, spend some time watching for meteors. Keep a note of what you find and try again on another evening to become more familiar with the changing night sky.

Safety, law and etiquette

Cold, ice and early darkness cause many December outdoor problems, but good preparation and sensible decisions can prevent a great deal of trouble. Understand the risks before setting out, know when to change your plans and remember that looking after the environment is just as important as looking after yourself.

Hazard

What to do

Hypothermia

Stay dry, adjust your layers before you become cold and eat and drink regularly. Remember the umbles: stumbles, mumbles, fumbles and grumbles. These can be warning signs, but also watch for persistent shivering, confusion, slurred speech, unusual tiredness and slow breathing. Move the person somewhere sheltered, replace wet clothing with dry layers and insulate them from the ground. Call 999 if you suspect hypothermia.

Frostbite

Cover exposed skin in cold, windy conditions and watch for numbness, pale or waxy-looking skin and loss of feeling. Get somewhere warm and seek medical advice. Never rub or massage affected skin, apply direct heat or thaw it if there is a risk it could freeze again.

Ice and frost

Paths, boardwalks, steps, rocks and fallen logs can become extremely slippery. Wear footwear with suitable grip, slow down and use extra care on slopes. Never walk onto frozen ponds, lakes or rivers; ice thickness is unpredictable.

Short days

Plan your route so you can return to your car, accommodation or starting point well before sunset. Carry a headtorch, spare batteries and a backup light. Tell someone your route and expected return time, and let them know if your plans change.

Falling branches

Strong winds, saturated ground, frost and snow can make branches and trees unstable. Avoid woodland during strong winds and keep away from dead, damaged or leaning trees. Never pitch a shelter beneath dead branches or trees that could fall.

Carbon monoxide

Never use charcoal, hot coals, open fires or camping stoves inside a tent or enclosed shelter. Carbon monoxide is colourless and odourless and can be fatal. Cook outside in a well-ventilated area, following the stove manufacturer’s instructions.

Game shoots

Shooting activities may take place in woodland and countryside during the winter, but dates and arrangements vary by location and species. Look for warning signs, follow temporary access restrictions and pay attention to activity, vehicles and gunfire. Keep to permitted routes where appropriate and leave the area if you are unsure or feel unsafe.

Water

Heavy rain can cause streams and rivers to rise quickly, while muddy banks and submerged rocks become slippery. Never attempt to cross fast-flowing, deep or flooded water. Turn back and find another route rather than taking a risk.

If someone becomes seriously unwell, injured or lost, contact the emergency services using the appropriate number for the country you are in. In the UK, call 999. Do not delay seeking help because you are hoping the situation will improve.

Law and Etiquette

The countryside is shared with landowners, wildlife, local communities and other visitors. Respecting access rules and leaving places undamaged helps protect the areas we enjoy.

The legal position varies between countries and sometimes between individual sites. In the UK, access rights, camping rules and fire restrictions differ between England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland. Always check the rules for the specific place you intend to visit.

  • Permission and access: Check whether you are allowed to camp, light a fire or collect wood. In England, Wales and Northern Ireland, wild camping generally requires the landowner’s permission. Scotland has different responsible access rights, which can include lightweight camping in suitable places, but these come with responsibilities and restrictions. Do not assume that permission to walk automatically allows you to light a fire or collect materials.
  • Christmas greenery: Holly, ivy and mistletoe may be tempting to collect for decorations, but do not take them from private land without permission. Check site rules and any applicable wildlife or conservation protections before collecting plants.
  • Protect hibernating wildlife: Hedgehogs, dormice and bats may spend the winter in sheltered places such as leaf litter, log piles, hollow trees and buildings. Avoid disturbing potential hibernation sites. Do not rake through piles of leaves, dismantle log piles or investigate hollows unnecessarily.
  • Control dogs around wildlife and shooting activity: Keep dogs under close control and use a lead where necessary, particularly near deer, livestock, nesting or resting wildlife and organised shoots. Follow signs and instructions from land managers. Never allow a dog to chase wildlife.
  • Leave living trees alone: Never cut, strip or damage living trees to obtain firewood, bark or shelter materials. Leave large fallen trunks and rotting deadwood where they are whenever possible, as they provide important habitat for insects, fungi and other wildlife. Only collect small fallen pieces where collection is permitted.
  • Respect other countryside users: Be considerate towards walkers, riders, cyclists, farmers, forestry workers and anyone else using or managing the land. Keep noise down, close gates as you find them and never block tracks or access points.
  • Take everything home: Remove all litter, food scraps, packaging and equipment. If you have used an authorised fire site, follow its rules for disposing of cold ash and charcoal. Never leave a fire smouldering or bury hot embers. Leave the area as you found it, or better.

The best outdoor practice is to leave no unnecessary trace of your visit. A good bushcrafter develops skills without damaging the places and wildlife that make those skills possible.

Challenges, kit list and FAQ

This month’s challenges

December is an opportunity to put your outdoor skills to the test. These four challenges focus on firecraft, tree identification, navigation and cold-weather preparation.

Each challenge has a clear pass criterion so you can assess your progress. Choose suitable conditions, follow local rules and prioritise safety over completing a task. You can practise the fire challenge only where fires are permitted, and you should never deliberately expose yourself to dangerous cold.

Challenge

The task

You pass if

1. Reflector Fire

Where fires are permitted, build a small, controlled fire with a stable reflector positioned safely behind it. Observe how the reflector affects the warmth you feel from a safe sitting position.

You establish and maintain a controlled fire without repeatedly relighting it, explain how the reflector affects radiant heat, and extinguish the fire completely. Do not use a fixed burn time as a test of skill, and never compromise fire safety to keep it burning.

2. Winter Tree Identification

Identify six local tree species using bark, buds, twigs and branching patterns, without relying on leaves. Take a photograph of each tree and record your identification.

At least five of the six identifications are correct when checked against a reliable regional field guide or other trustworthy identification resource. Explain one feature that helped you identify each tree.

3. Winter Stars

Find Orion, Sirius, the Pleiades and Polaris in the night sky without using a phone app. Use the stars to practise identifying north.

You correctly identify all four objects when they are visible from your location and explain how you used the night sky to find north. If cloud or the horizon prevents you from seeing one, try again on another suitable evening.

4. Cold-Weather Kit Test

Spend 30–60 minutes outdoors in suitable winter conditions close to home, your garden or your parked vehicle. Wear your planned winter clothing and practise adjusting your layers while walking gently and then resting.

You remain comfortably warm and dry, retain normal hand function and can explain what you would change before a longer trip. End the test immediately if you develop persistent shivering, numbness, unusual clumsiness or other warning signs of cold stress.

Challenge tip: Keep a short record of each attempt, including the weather, equipment used, what worked and what you would change. These notes will help you improve your skills over time. Never take unnecessary risks simply to earn a pass.

Kit list for December

Cold weather places extra demands on your clothing, shelter and equipment. Use this checklist before heading out, adapting it to your location, forecast, activity and the length of your trip.

Clothing and Footwear

  • Wool or synthetic base layers, an insulating mid-layer, an insulated jacket, and a waterproof jacket with waterproof over-trousers.
  • A warm hat, a neck gaiter and two pairs of gloves, including one spare pair.
  • Insulated boots suitable for the terrain and conditions.
  • Spare dry wool or synthetic socks stored in a waterproof bag.

Shelter and Sleeping

  • A tarp approximately 3 m × 3 m, with 15–20 metres of suitable cord and appropriate pegs.
  • A sleeping mat with an R-value of around 4 or higher as a starting point for many cold-weather conditions. Consider additional insulation in freezing conditions.
  • A sleeping bag with a comfort rating appropriate for the forecast overnight low if you plan to sleep outdoors.
  • A foil emergency blanket or other suitable emergency shelter.

Fire and Tools

  • A fire kit in a waterproof container, including a ferro rod, a lighter as backup and dry tinder. Carry and use this only where fires are permitted and appropriate.
  • A suitable knife and folding saw, used responsibly and in accordance with local laws.
  • A reliable method of cooking or heating water, such as a suitable camping stove, if permitted. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and never operate it inside a tent or enclosed shelter.
  • A headtorch with spare batteries. A red-light mode can be useful for preserving night vision, but make sure you have a sufficiently bright white-light setting for moving safely.
  • A map of the area, a compass and a whistle.
  • A first-aid kit suitable for your activity.
  • A phone kept in an inside pocket, with a power bank and suitable charging cable.
  • Hand warmers, if useful, as a supplement to proper clothing and insulation.

Food and Drink

  • A flask containing a warm drink.
  • High-energy snacks such as nuts, dried fruit, chocolate or energy bars.
  • Enough food and water for the planned activity, plus a sensible reserve in case you are delayed.

Before leaving: Check the forecast, daylight hours, route conditions and any access restrictions. Make sure your equipment is working, tell someone your route and expected return time, and carry enough insulation to cope if you have to stop moving.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is December too cold for bushcraft?

No. December can be an excellent month to develop outdoor skills, provided you prepare appropriately. Dress in layers, keep your clothing dry, use suitable insulation and begin with short activities close to home. Treat sunset as a planning deadline and learn to recognise the signs of cold stress. Never go beyond your experience or equipment’s capabilities simply to complete a challenge.

Can I eat holly berries?

No. Do not eat holly berries. Ivy berries are also poisonous, while yew is particularly dangerous because its seeds and many other parts of the plant contain highly toxic compounds. Mistletoe berries can also cause poisoning. Birds may eat some of these berries, but that does not make them safe for people. Never identify a wild food by appearance alone.

Can I light a fire in the woods at Christmas?

Only where it is permitted and safe. In England and Wales, access rights do not give you a general right to light a fire on someone else’s land. In Scotland, follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code and any site-specific restrictions; open fires are discouraged in many sensitive or high-risk locations. Rules also vary elsewhere, so check with the landowner or site manager before lighting a fire. If fires are not allowed, consider a camping stove only if stove use is permitted, and follow its safety instructions.

What is the best way to stay warm outdoors?

Use layers that manage moisture and trap warmth, protect yourself from wind and rain, and insulate yourself from the ground when resting or sleeping. Eat and drink regularly, and adjust your clothing before strenuous activity makes you sweat. Put extra layers back on when you stop. Staying dry, recognising early signs of cold stress and knowing when to head home are just as important as the clothing you wear.

How many hours of daylight are there in December?

Daylight varies with latitude, location and date. In London, there are roughly eight hours of daylight around the beginning of December, falling to about seven hours and fifty minutes around the winter solstice. Edinburgh has less: approximately seven and a half hours at the start of the month, falling to around seven hours near the solstice.

These are approximate figures for the UK. The exact sunrise and sunset times vary each year and depend on the location. In the Southern Hemisphere, December brings longer days in many regions, although local conditions differ.

What should I practise first if I am new to winter bushcraft?

Start with skills that do not depend on a fire or an overnight stay. Practise identifying trees without leaves, using a map and compass on a familiar route, checking weather forecasts and adjusting your clothing while walking. Once you are confident with these basics, test your shelter and sleeping equipment close to home before relying on them in remote conditions.

Is it safe to sleep outside in December?

It can be, with appropriate experience, equipment and conditions, but winter camping carries additional risks. Your sleeping bag, mat, shelter and clothing must suit the expected temperatures and weather. Check the forecast, choose a safe campsite, protect your equipment from moisture and have a clear plan for leaving if conditions deteriorate. Practise close to home before attempting a remote overnight stay.

The aim is to build reliable skills, not to endure discomfort. Good winter bushcraft means recognising your limits, preparing for changing conditions and making sensible decisions before a situation becomes dangerous.

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